Reclaiming our roots: Can Traditional Farming Save the Gaspésie?
Arthur Poirier-Roy, LJI Journalist
PASPEBIAC – Gaspésie, a region renowned for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant tourism, faces a quiet crisis. While tourists flock to the coast, drawn by the promise of authenticity and local flavour, the very foundation of that appeal – small, traditional farms – is crumbling under the weight of an outdated agricultural model. Many farmers, like a young farmer from the Baie-des-Chaleurs, are struggling to survive, caught between the rising costs of industrial agriculture and the bureaucratic hurdles that favour large-scale operations.
This farmer, who wishes to remain anonymous, paints a stark picture of the challenges facing his family farm. “In Quebec,” he explains, “We don’t see farming as a way to feed ourselves, but as a path to wealth.” This shift in perspective, he argues, is at the heart of the problem. A century ago, farms were family endeavors, not businesses. They operated on a circular model, integrating crops, livestock, and natural resources in a self-sustaining cycle. This fostered a deep understanding of soil health and ecosystem function, a hands-on knowledge passed down through generations.
The 20th century brought a revolution, heralded by Nobel laureates Fritz Haber, Carl Bosch, and Norman Borlaug, whose innovations in fertilizers and plant breeding dramatically increased yields. Famine became less of a threat, but agriculture transformed into a business. The focus shifted from feeding communities to maximizing profits. Monocultures, mechanization, and pesticides became the norm, slowly eroding the rich biodiversity of traditional farming.
A new generation seeks to return to smaller, environmentally friendly models, preserving both traditional knowledge and unique crop and animal varieties. But they face significant obstacles. One major hurdle is the mandatory union membership with the UPA required for registered farms. The hefty fees are manageable only for those who scale their operations, prioritizing industrial farming over traditional methods.
Furthermore, union regulations often restrict on-farm slaughtering, forcing farmers to transport animals to distant facilities, adding to costs and pushing them to sell their meat in cities rather than locally. Ironically, studies, including one from the University of Córdoba, demonstrate that on-farm slaughter often results in better animal welfare and hygiene due to reduced stress.
For the Gaspé Peninsula, this is particularly troubling. The region’s tourism industry thrives on the promise of unique, local products. Small traditional farms are the backbone of this appeal. Beyond the environmental concerns surrounding industrial agriculture, allowing farmers to return to their roots would revitalize the region’s economy and preserve its unique character. It’s a matter of supporting a sustainable model that benefits both the planet and the people of the Gaspésie.
The union’s focus on registered businesses also leaves smaller farms invisible, preventing them from accessing crucial support and making it nearly impossible to break even. And the shift from inheriting farms to purchasing them adds another layer of financial burden, as the real estate costs are considerable.
This shift has left many Gaspésie farmers struggling to adapt. How are they navigating this complex landscape? How are they balancing tradition with the demands of a changing climate? In upcoming articles, we’ll speak with local farmers about their experiences, exploring the innovative ways they’re adapting their practices to survive and thrive in this challenging era. Do you have a story to share about farming in Gaspésie? We invite you to write to the Gaspé Spec if you’d like to contribute to this important conversation
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